27 November (Happy birthday Emily)
PJ
We set our alarm for 4:40am. 1st activity for the day was trawling for some fish just off Chompoin Island where the resort is.
Tuna were in abundance and it is not unusual to look out from the beach and see a frenzy of activity on the sea surface with the fish jumping out causing splashes of white presumably feeding on something while sea Eagles diving in for their meal.
Jacinta was feeling the beginnings of a cold so stayed back while Chakumai, Kiliwi and I set out to see what we could catch.
As we were leaving I showed Chakumai how to use the video function on the camera so he could capture my first catch. I have not been fishing nor caught a fish in the ocean for well over 20 years so I was excited.
We would not have been out for more than 10 minutes when all three of us almost simultaneously felt a tug on our lines and were reeling in our fish. 10 minutes later we were again reeling in another 3. Then the next time we threw in our lines we all lost our lures while reeling in the fish so we decided to head back to shore. We would have been out there a mere 40 minutes or so and returned with 6 fish.
Chakumai never had time to get that video, you’ll just have to believe me when I say I caught two fish.
Jacinta
I woke up with a strong case of the Lorengau Lurgy, but pulled myself together because I didn’t want to miss the snorkelling trip. We went snorkelling straight after breakfast, with Chakumai, Kiliwi, Kiteni and two of the other young women. We snorkelled at two sites around Anun Island, just a short boat trip away from the island we are on.
It was absolute magic. When we have both been on a separate diving trip in Cairns, they make a point of taking all 50ish divers in a conveyor belt fashion to one spot to see one pair of clown fish, and you get your photo taken. PJ had just got in the water and was testing the camera and I was already pointing out sea anemone and a pair of clown fish. We must have seen about 30 of them. PJ doesn’t have prescription goggles or contacts so I am his underwater seeing eye dog, pointing out all the wonders for him to get a closer look at and photos. We saw endless clamshells, a lobster, a jelly fish, a creature that looked a bit like a big axolotl with leopard spots, that Chakumai called a ‘big mouth’ when he saw the photo. And so many mysterious creatures and corals.
We learnt that the M’Buke people have created restricted zones for conservation. Anyone can visit and snorkel but no one is allowed to fish. It’s hard to describe the enormity of the reef here. You can drop in to the ocean and snorkel a 100m section filled with innumerable wonders, and not even be close to seeing what is there.
When we got back, PJ and Kiliwi spoke about the health aid post at the main M’Buke Island, what the health care model looks like and what could be done. He asked if PJ wanted to talk to the community about health issues. PJ said he is happy to sit with people to listen and try to understand what the community needs are. Kiliwi suggested that PJ talk with the chiefs.
Another enormous meal arrived even though we keep insisting that we cannot even eat one third of the food they bring us. I’m glad the leftover food gets shared with everyone. We are trying to eat together with everyone but so far we’ve only coaxed Chakumai to join us for dinner once. We found out they were shy about their cooking and how they eat. We are desperately trying to convey that the food and ingredients are incredible, we’ve never eaten better in our lives. They have a picture of our western food, and our cooking skills that definitely do not match up with reality.
After lunch, Chakumai told us Kiliwi spoke to the clan chiefs and they were going to meet us when we went to M’Buke. The boat ride was about the time from Townsville to Yunbenun.
It was a really special occasion. The newly elected local councillor Bernard welcomed us to the island. They showed us the health clinic. You’ll see a photo of the little blue book of clinical guidelines for children, that we recently learned Uncle John was the original author of. It’s still in use across PNG today and this copy has definitely been put to good use.
They gifted us a bowl of bananas and a pineapple, and we sat under a pergola at the ocean front and talked. One of the chiefs told PJ of how he had brought his sick sister to PJ’s clinic in Port Moresby, and how much it had helped her. Many stories were told, about life on the island, about which health needs could be prioritised, and about how we might be able to connect them with useful people and resources. We also talked about how amazing our time has been here and they clapped with joy when PJ told them this is the most beautiful place he’s ever seen. They particularly liked the story about how many nemo fish are here compared to the one well worn piece of coral that we had to hold on to to see the one pair of nemos in Cairns. This resort is not yet being utilised for tourists and they were very keen to hear of our experience and how it could be used. Chakumai presented the balls and the volleyball net we had brought to the committee for the community.
The chiefs officially welcomed us, by telling us we would be welcome to come and snorkel, explore and be in community with them any time. To formalise the relationship, PJ already has a Manus name but they decided that they will give me a Manus name as well. They said that Chakumai would give me the name.
The meeting wrapped up with PJ finding out this was actually his second time on M’Buke. One of the chiefs said that Nahau came to the island in 1977, while on the campaign trail for the very first general election in PNG after independence. While she was making a speech, a baby started crying in the canoe she had arrived on. She had to interrupt her speech to go to the canoe to breastfeed baby PJ and then she returned and finished her speech. What a remarkable piece of history.
What we gathered from the meeting was how resilient and resourceful the M’Buke people are and how aware they are of the inconsistency of the government support and their need to seek their own solutions. We are excited about being friends of the M’Buke community.
They took us for a walk around the community and we saw the soccer field, the school and teachers’ houses. Some kids were playing soccer with the world’s most beat up flat soccer ball so it’s gonna be put to good use. The Australian government provided some of the school buildings and put a big plaque on it so that wasn’t ever forgotten…
We saw the beautiful food gardens around everyone’s houses and we got to visit Chakumai’s home and children, a big collection of beautiful kids, some of them he and his wife have adopted. The kids climbed a tree to pick some fruit for me to eat that I hadn’t had before. A type of laulau.
As we were leaving, PJ met the chief’s sister who had come to his clinic for treatment.
On our return, Terry and Kiteni dressed me up in traditional Manus attire and Chakumai gave me the name Piwen, which is both of their mothers’ name. I was very honoured. Now everyone here is calling me Piwen.
